Veritas Dovetail Saw
I purchased this saw 4 years ago during the first few months at Rycotewood and it is still doing me proud to this day without being sharpened. Veritas dovetail saws are slightly cheaper than their Lie-Nielsen counterparts which makes them a great investment for beginners and their slightly lighter weight makes it easier to begin the cut, another difficulty beginners have. The handle is made from Bubinga and the composite spine is permanently moulded onto the blade which results in less vibration. This is all connected together by a long screw that pulls a tenon on the spine into a mortise in the handle resulting in a very secure fit.
Veritas Carcass Saw
My carcass saw has been filed to a crosscut tooth pattern to give me an all round comprehensive set. Having a saw this size that is dedicated for crosscutting means it is still small enough to cut the outside waste on dovetails, but also large enough to cut components to size on a standard bench hook. Put it this way, the dimensions of the saw plate has never been a limitation to me and I've been using this for 4 years now. Saying that, you still get the option to purchase this in a rip-tooth pattern if you felt that would be more useful.
Lie-Nielsen Tapered Tenon Saw
This was a complete impulse buy. I didn't have a need for a tenon saw, but I did want one. I used this while on the Anarchists Tool Chest Course with The New English workshop in the summer of 2014. It absolutely tears through the wood with no effort what so ever, the tapering of the blade helps this even more. The handles on Lie-Nielsen saws are also slightly different to those on Veritas and I find they fit my hand better, as well as look stunning.
Knew Concepts 5 Inch Fret Saw
Chris Schwarz said it best when he stated 'The only thing a fretsaw can tension is my nerves.' It's the number one reason for blades breaking in cheaper, flimsier models. The knew concepts saw eliminates this slack by creating a webbed frame that prevents itself from buckling under tension and also looks pretty swanky in the process. You get a few different options with these saws: different depths between the blade and frame and different tensioning systems for the blade. I went for the screw tension however the cam clamp system would have been far easier and quicker.
Gramercy Tools Veneer Saw
This has been an absolute godsend for me. We do a lot of veneering at Rycotewood and my number one pet hate is trying to use a scalpel to join veneers together. The bevel on the blade creates an angle on the joining faces, I regularly slip off the ruler and cut my finger and the blade always ends up following the grain. This veneer saw eliminates all of that. Simply make a right angle wooden fence to run the saw against, start cutting at the midle of the blade and slowly rock it forward while sweeping back towards you. The cut is as straight and square as the wooden fence, it doesn't follow the grain, and you'd have to be an idiot to cut yourself during use. Would highly recommend!
Japanese Gents Saw
This is a great little saw for miniature dovetails such as those on the corners of the Trinket Box I made. The advantage to a Japanese saw is that they cut on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke. This means that the blade pulls itself into tension while it is cutting rather than wanting to buckle itself while you're pushing it. Because of this, it means they are able to make the saw plates thinner, reducing the kerf of the cut which ultimately makes it easier to remove waste. It doesn't get used often but is incredibly useful for small, specialist applications.